簸箕炊——儿时的味道

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簸箕炊，是广东省粤西地区的传统小吃之一，在茂名地区的电白、高州、化州、以及湛江地区的各县市区，遂溪县、廉江市、吴川市、雷州市、徐闻县一带非常盛行。因其采用竹篾编制而成的簸箕为盛具而著称，化州又称"格籺"或"簸箕籺"。遂溪西边沿海的港门镇、北坡镇、草潭镇、杨柑镇等称之为"白籺"，茂名市区及电白区周边称其为簸箕炊。

簸箕炊的原料主要以大米、生粉、清水、熟芝麻、花生油、酱油、辣椒酱、蒜头为主，在制作时可以将大米洗净，用清水浸3小时，捞起，投入石磨中边加清水边磨成米浆，加入适量生粉与之拌匀，过细眼萝斗，成为米粉浆；待蒸锅水开上气后，将米粉浆分次灌入托盘或小簸箕蒸熟即成。在夏秋季节，人们将簸箕炊切成小方块，撒上小芝麻或配蒜头、酱油、花生油；冬春季节，可以将簸箕炊切成小方块炒热加辣椒酱。特点：洁白、软滑、爽口、咸香。功用：补中益气，止烦止渴。这种风味小吃，尤以安铺、横山一带的制工精，味道好。

簸箕炊则因其采用竹篾编制而成的簸箕为盛具而著称，其后放磨成桨的米粉于簸箕当中，待一层熟透后再逐渐添加，一般都有三层以上，待米粉全熟后，用小刀将其剐成格状，以方便食客食用，最后在其表面放上香油、芝麻与秘制的酱料（不过现在多用酱油代替）然后蘸着吃，也可以用小刀将其剐成格状，其表面放上香油、芝麻与蒜蓉浆(即蒜鸡油)。入口细腻富有弹性，软滑而不黏牙，再加上秘制的酱料，香浓而又不腻入口细腻富有弹性，秘制酱料让人回味无穷。

可以说，簸箕炊是许多茂名人的共同的儿童时期回忆，则是一点都不为过的。而在茂名市区目前也有许多制作簸箕炊的老字号，例如位于中山路步行街的四爹老档，赤坎的立交桥早餐店等等，相信在茂名生活的人对簸箕炊都会有一份情有独钟，除了它的独特的口感，更多的还是孩提时的一种记忆，一种情怀。

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